Mughal Gold Ring, India, with Rubies and Emeralds

Mughal Gold Ring Set with a Carved Emerald, Rubies and other Emeralds

North India

early 19th century

weight: 6g; ring size: size H (English), 3 3/4 (US), 6 (French/Japanese)

This Mughal-era solid gold ring is set with a central, large emerald which has been carved with a flower motif. This is surrounded by twelve rubies in gold box settings. Two further emeralds are on the shoulders of the ring, to each side of the bezel.

The reverse of the bezel (the inside of the ring) is engraved with an Ottoman-Mughal stylised flowering poppy plant with red and pale blue enamel highlights (there are some losses to the enamel). The exterior of the hoop is chased with geometric patterning and this has further traces of enamel.

The central carved emerald harks back to earlier centuries when emeralds were carved in Mughal India, and might well be from the eighteenth century. An eighteenth century carved emerald with a similar central flower motif is in the Khalili Collection and illustrated in Moura Carvalho (2010, p. 67).

Related examples are illustrated in van Cutsem (2000, p. 126), and a ring with a similarly engraved and enamelled band attributed to ‘possibly Jaipur’ is illustrated in Aitken (2004, p. 122).

The ring is in a stable, wearable condition.

References

Aitken, M.E., When Gold Blossoms: Indian Jewelry from the Susan L. Beningson Collection, Asia Society & Philip Wilson Publishers, 2004.

van Cutsem, A., A World of Rings: Africa, Asia, America, Skira, 2000.

Moura Carvalho, P., Gems and Jewels of Mughal India: Jewelled and Enamelled Objects from the 16th to 20th Centuries, The Nasser D. Khalili Collection of Islamic Art, Volume XVII, The Nour Foundation, 2010.

Provenance

UK art market

Inventory no.: 1896

SOLD