Nepalese Himalayan Chepu Gold Earrings

Large Royal Gold Chepu Earrings with Emeralds, Rubies & Other Precious Stones

Nepal

early 19th century

diameter (each): 6.65 cm; weight (each, approx.) 45g

This magnificent and extremely rare pair of earrings were worn by Nepalese royal women during the nineteenth century.

They are of 22 carat gold inset with rubies, emeralds, turquoise, lapis lazuli, coral and pearls.

The edges comprise a border of applied gold sphere that represent pearls.

The centre of each earring contains a chepu figure (kirtimukha – ‘face of glory’) in carved lapis lazuli with arms and ears of carved coral, hands of more sculptured lapis lazuli, and eyes of rubies. The chepu faces emerge from a collar of emeralds and are set against grounds of gold filigree and pearled gold wire inset with rubies and turquoise cabochons. (See Clarke, 2004, p. 112 for an example of Nepalese jewellery that makes use of chepu faces.)

Concentric borders of fine, well-matched pearls; rubies; and turquoise follow, and then a border of gold lozenge petals and finally the outer edge of gold ‘pearls’.

The earrings are set on backings of plain silver with silver posts with knobs of silver filigree around a central turquoise cabochon.

The earrings are the products of Newar goldsmiths. The Newar are the dominant ethnic group in the Kathmandu Valley and have specialised in metalwork for centuries, plying their trade across Nepal, Tibet and the rest of the Himalayas.

Gold pearled filigree is a Newari trademark & open filigree of the type shown on this pair of earrings is consistent with a nineteenth century dating.

The earrings are in excellent condition. There is a build-up of dirt between the crevices of the stones, as one would expect on old pieces, and they show wear to the back. There are no chips, cracks or repairs. One earring is deficient two small pearls and the other is deficient a small emerald. Such losses are insignificant and consistent with the age of the earrings.

References

Casey Singer, J., Gold Jewelry from Tibet and Nepal, Thames & Hudson, 1996.

Clarke, J., Jewellery of Tibet and the Himalayas, V&A Publications, 2004.

Rana, P., P. Rana & G. Rana, The Ranas of Nepal, Timeless Books, 2003.

Provenance

private collection, Switzerland

Inventory no.: 2090

SOLD

Late 19th century – early 20th century photographs of Rana family members.