Tibetan Woman’s Gold & Silver Belt

Rare Gold, Silver & Turquoise Woman’s Belt Ornament (Gyenzen)

This T-shaped belt comprises three heavy straps of hundreds of silver lozenge-shaped segments, all engraved or cast with designs, and all joined in a tight mesh-like formation. Some of the lozenge segments are overlaid with high-grade gold sheet to form patterns along each arm of the belt.

In addition, gold filigree plaques that have been chemically stained red and inset with turquoise cabochons have been attached to the arms.

The arms radiate from a central square medallion and are attached by means of silver barrel-like hinges each of which is decorated by pearled silver wire and bud-like finials at both ends.

The central medallion is topped with a tear-shaped medallion. Both are heavily inset with striking, light-blue turquoise cabochons in high-grade sheet gold and gilt box settings, around central red glass cabochon buttons.

Each of the three arms of the belt terminate with flanges and hooks set with turquoise and red glass set in what appears to be gold sheet box settings. The central arm terminates not with a hook but a round silver

dharma wheel pendant set with a central turquoise.

Belts such as these were worn with the central strap hanging down freely. On important occasions, long strands of pearls, coral and turquoise beads were attached to the wheel-like end of the central strap. These could loop down almost to the ground and back up again where they were attached to the main garment somewhere near the shoulder.

The example here has some losses t the turquoise and one of the red glass cabochons on one of the arms has been lost. But importantly, the example here has clear signs of significant age, and is otherwise in fine condition. The interplay between the two different types of gold and the silver is pleasing and unusual.

A belt of similar form is illustrated in Casey Singer (1996, p. 142), and in Clarke (2004, p. 67).