Umlakh Silver Groom’s Crown, India

Silver Groom’s Crown (Umlakh)

Solid silver crowns comprising a series of hinged panels such as the example here were worn around the forehead by the groom during the wedding ceremony in the Punjab and Himachal Pradesh. Untracht (1997, p. 166) argues that such crowns might have been inspired by those sometimes depicted as being worn by Hindu deities or by the multi-unit crowns worn by Tibetan tantric priests. According to Untracht, they were owned by goldsmiths, bankers and moneylenders who rented them out for weddings.

The crown here comprises five repoussed silver panels hinged together and with double chains suspended beneath. Each panel is decorated with a deity seated within floral and leafy borders. The gods most likely are Ganesha, Shiva, Karttikeya, Lakshmi and Kali. Each is seated on a lotus flower other than Kali on the far right who (true to form) is seated on an animal skin. Each panel is further decorated by a solid-cast leaf finial, as are the hinged between each panel.

The two panels on either end have two silver lugs or hoops on their reverse outer edges, which were used to secure the crown to the head.

The set is in fine condition. Minor denting associated with age and use is present. There are no losses or repairs.

Untracht, O., Traditional Jewelry of India, Thames & Hudson, 1997.

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