Himalayan Shell Hair Ornament (Dunkertsa)

This fine ornament of carved and engraved thick chank shell with lac highlights is from the Lahaul (Lahul) and Spiti Districts of India’s northern Himachal Pradesh state in the Himalayas. Related ornaments were worn in Ladakh. It has the natural curve of the shell from which it was made and has been drilled with a central hole to allow it to be attached to the hair, as a decorative hair or head ornament.

The ornament has been carved with deep linear grooves and concentric roundels, all in a mandala form.

It has the most splendid patina, with the contours being softened from years of handling.

A dating of 19th century has been assigned but it could be earlier.

Ornaments made from shells were prestige pieces – there were no local supplies and the shell components were brought to the mountainous region by traders. Their imported status meant that they were expensive and so were considered luxury goods by the wearers. The marine origins of shell components and the association with fish meant that items made from such components were associated with fertility and so were ideal items for women to wear.

The form and decoration relates to silver-alloy examples that also were worn in the hair.

Lahaul (Lahul) and Spiti Districts are small in terms of  population an even today have a combined population of slightly more than 30,000. The population is generally of Tibetan or related ancestry and the  majority ethnic group is the Sino-Tibetan Kinnaur people. Generally, the locals follow a combination of Hinduism and Tibetan Buddhism of the Drukpa Kagyu order, or   Tibetan Buddhism of the Gelugpa order.

The ornament is in excellent condition. It is unusually large, well decorated and has a superb patina.