Enquiry about object: 8490
Indian Large, Enamelled, Gold Navaratna Gem-set Pendant
Benares or Lucknow, India circa 1900
length: 9.5cm, width: 6cm, weight: 65g
Provenance
UK art market
This large, very fine pierced, floral-form pendant is of gold (most probably reinforced with lac) set with large, flat diamonds and nine nava-ratna gems, including an emerald, a citrine, coral, moonstone and a sapphire, all around a large, faceted ruby.
Untracht (1997, p. 309) says that in Dravidian south India, the nava-ratna gemstones are used as a rosary but elsewhere in India, they are used as a talismanic device. The nine gems have multiple meanings and associations. One is that each gem represents the nine celestial Hindu deities and the nine ‘planets’ .
The top of the pendant is decorated with a large, round baroque pearl, and a tear-shaped pearl is suspended from the lower edge. Two golds loops on each side of the pendant allow suspension.
The reverse is beautifully enamelled in cream, red and green enamels with Mughal-inspired poppy motifs.
The pendant is in excellent condition, and is highly wearable.
References
Aitken, M.E., When Gold Blossoms: Indian Jewelry from the Susan L. Beningson Collection, Asia Society & Philip Wilson Publishers, 2004.
Bala Krishnan, U.R., Jewels of the Nizams, Department of Culture, Government of India, 2001.
Barnard, N., Indian Jewellery, V&A Publishing, 2008.
Chong, A, & N. Murai, Journeys East: Isabella Steward Gardner and Asia, Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, 2009.
Untracht, O., Traditional Jewelry of India, Thames & Hudson, 1997.
