Enquiry about object: 9305
Unusually Large, Naga Trade Bead & Bone Belt or Girdle
Konyak Naga People, North-West India & Western Burma early 20th century and possibly earlier
length: 82cm, width: 13.5cm
Provenance
private collection, US
This long and wide beaded belt or girdle would have been worn over a short skirt by a Naga woman, probably of the Konyak group.
It comprises dozens of strands of orange, white, red, blue, green and other coloured glass trade beads. Most probably were manufactured in India, others will be from Europe, most probably Venice. The beads are strung on natural fibre cord and held in place by eight bone spacers of graduated lengths.
The belt has a loop closure with what is probably an Indian coin which is attached to a panel of hand-woven, natural fibre cord. The coin is so worn that it is now quite thin and no longer is anything legible on either side.
Such belts functioned as displays of status and wealth given all the beads they required. This was more so the larger the belt, and this example is particularly large.
Jacobs (1990, p. 308) illustrates several related examples.
The belt is in excellent condition – there are no discernible losses and the threading is robust and stable. The beads have ample age and patina. The bone spacers have a wonderful honeyed colour from age.
This is a superb example of Naga beadwork and is unusually large and elegant.
References
Daalder, T., Ethnic Jewellery and Adornment: Australia, Oceania, Asia, Africa, Ethnic Art Press/Macmillan, 2009.
Jacobs, J., The Nagas: Hill Peoples of Northeast India, Thames & Hudson, 1990.
Shilu, A., Naga Tribal Adornment: Signatures of Status and Self, The Bead Museum, Washington, 2003.
Untracht, O., Traditional Jewelry of India, Thames & Hudson, 1997.
