Malay Red Silk & Gold Thread Man’s Silk Ikat Headscarf (Ikat Kepala)

This fine square silk headscarf (ikat kepala or tengkuluk) is from the Malay people of the Palembang region of southern Sumatra. Cloths such as these were made in the region and exported to Malay and related communities across Sumatra and the Malay Peninsula, as well as being worn locally. They were worn wrapped and tied in elaborate styles by men around their heads on important ceremonial occasions.

It dates to the 19th century and is made of silk coloured with natural dyes, gold thread, weft ikat (limar) and supplementary weft weave (songket).

The gold thread songket motifs scattered across the ikat background represent stylised flower forms. Two borders are completely infilled with additional songket work, and the other two are decorated with flower motifs. This difference in the borders is unusual, however a similarly executed headscarf attributed to Palembang, circa 1800 is the Malaysia’s National Textile Museum and illustrated in Ismail (2012, p. 167).

Similar examples all dated to the 19th century are illustrated in Maxwell (2003a, p. 96) and Maxwell (2003b, p. 311).

Among the Malays, how to wrap and tie the headscarf or headcloth around the head was among the many traditional arts that were pursued. Regional differences emerged and on the Malay Peninsula, individual styles emerged for each royal house and the associated aristocrats.

The example here is in fine condition. There is minor age and use-related staining but no holes, tears or repairs.

 

Above: Two Malay village headmen, East Sumatra, early 20th century. Both wear ikat kepala.