9588

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    Moroccan Berber Necklace of Large Antique Amber Beads

    Berber People, High Atlas Mountains, Morocco.
    18th-19th century

    circumference: approximately 65cm, length of beads: between 2.5 and 6.2cm, overall weight: 622g

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    Provenance

    private collection, Amsterdam, Netherlands

    This large necklace of 29 very old, natural and unprocessed amber beads of graduated sizes is from the Berber people of the High Atlas Mountains of the Southeastern Atlas foothills of Morocco.

    The beads are in the form of thick chunks of old amber, many with ‘native’ wire repairs, inserts and bands to keep each bead stable. Repairs such as these have become particularly desirable both for what they add to the story and history of the piece but also because they are authenticating of age and value. This is especially important as amber has become increasingly valued and costly.

    Many of the beads have threading holes that show much wear and which have widened over many years of use.

    Such large necklaces of amber were a sign of wealth and prestige. As a store of wealth, they were heirloom pieces that were handed down through the generations.

    A heavy necklace such as this example was worn on the front but also could have been worn down the back as a counterweight.

    Natural amber was greatly valued by Berber families especially in southeastern Morocco for its symbolic and prophylactic properties

    A similar necklace of antique amber beads, some with repairs, is illustrated in Seiwert (2009, p. 74). That example is identified as coming either from Ait Haddidu, Mguna, Ait Atta, or Ait Seddrat Berber tribal groups in the High Atlas Mounts or the Southeastern foothills. Other examples of Berber necklaces made from antique amber chunks are illustrated in Draguet (2020).

    The necklace here is string on thin natural twine. Each bead is in a stable condition.

    References

    Draguet, M., Berber Memories: Women and Jewellery in Morocco, Mercatorfonds, 2020.

    Seiwert, W.D., Jewellery from the Orient: Treasures from the Bir Collection, Arnoldsche Art Publishers, 2009.

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