Moroccan Berber (Amazigh) Hair Braid Finial (Tidjgagalin)

This elaborate finial was worn by a Berber woman on the end of her hair plait or braid.

It comprises red Mediterranean coral, amber, green amazonite, small striped sea snail shells, glass trade beads from Bohemia (some in melon form), an agate trade bead from Cambay, Gujarat (agate beads from Gujarat have been traded to the Middle East and Africa for thousands of years), and at the base, three conical silver elements bound at the top by silver wire. These silver elements are typical of a very small region in the Draa Valley – in and around the village of Ktaoua – that favoured these. The top bead is a large black spherical bead known locally in Morocco as a tak tak bead. These were highly prized and have become so sought after in Morocco that they are now sold on a per gram basis rather than by bead. They are likely to be Dutch and possibly French glass trade beads dating to the 17th century.

One of the larger amber beads has a twisted silver wire around it to keep it intact. Old, native repairs such as have tended to make the amber even more desirable as its underscores its age, authenticity and value to the women who owned it.

The finial elements are flecked with remnants of scented paste which traditionally was applied to jewellery worn by women. It was applied not only for its scent but also for spiritual and aphrodisiac purposes. Pastes were ordered from specialist mixers and the recipes varied from retailer and also by purpose, but a typical recipe for such a scented paste might include rose petal powder, jatamansi (also known as spikenard or nard) powder, agarwood powder, mahlab powder, ground cloves, ground amber perfume block, gum Arabic powder, rosewater, ambergris tincture, geranium oil, rose essential oil, and neroli essential oil.

The hair braid finial retains its original stringing and is in its original condition. It has not been amended later by dealers in Morocco (for example) to make it more appealing. It is in its original, authentic state and has not been amended other than by the original owner. Probably it was last restrung around 1950 with more elements being added to many (much) earlier elements by its traditional owner. And as mentioned, it is larger and more laden than most extant examples, suggesting the wealth of its original owner.

Related examples are illustrated in Hoek (2004, p. 29) and Morin-Barde (1990, p. 122).

The example here is excellent, authentic and complete. It includes many rare and valuable elements, and as mentioned retains its original stringing and is without any modern additions.

 

Above: a Ktaoua village woman, circa 1960, wearing a tidjgagalin finial at the end of her plait down her back.