Enquiry about object: 9892
Rare Naga Head Hunter’s Necklace with Four Severed Heads
Naga People, North-Eastern India 19th-early 20th century
length of brass pendant: 12.6cm, length of strand: approximately 57cm, weight: 181g
Provenance
Hansjorg Mayer Collection, UK
This splendid and unusual Naga necklace comprises a strand of orange glass trade beads, and a locally-cast pendant of four cast brass severed trophy heads surmounted by two squatting ancestor figures. Tassels of red and black wool strands are suspended from each side of the pendant.
Necklaces of this type with representations of severed human heads traditionally were reserved for warriors who had successfully taken heads.
The addition of the squatting ancestor figures is unusual.
The necklace and all its constituent parts have excellent patina: it has clear age. The trophy heads have a wonderful rich colour and patina. There are no losses and the necklace is stable and wearable.
The beads are all matched in colour and shape.
According to Untracht (1997, p. 65), the Nagas ‘showed great discrimination when purchasing beads. They never bought irregular or low-quality beads and were fully prepared to pay the high price dealers demanded for beads of superior quality. Dealers knew this and sent only the best quality beads to Nagaland…’
The Naga people are concentrated in Eastern India. Smaller numbers are also in western Burma. The Naga themselves are divided into at least 15 major ethnic subgroups: the Angami, Ao, Chakhesang, Chang, Khiamniungan, Konyak, Lotha, Phom, Pochury, Rengma, Sangtam, Sümi, Tikhir, Yimkhiung, and the Zeme-Liangmai (Zeliang). They speak as many as 30 sometimes mutually unintelligible dialects. Traditionally, they were animists. Each group had their own ceremonial attire.
The area in India where the Nagas, who are believed to be of Mongolian descent, are concentrated was recognised as its own state, Nagaland, in 1977. It is a relatively remote, mountainous and landlocked region, but it was not remote from trade. The Nagas largely were farmers but general trade also was another economic activity, one in which both women and men participated. Costume and ornament making were a significant commercial activity. Some Naga tribes made no ornaments at all but instead bought them from other tribes.
The Naga appreciated imported glass beads and seashell components greatly for their jewellery and other adornment. Typically, the seashells were traded in from the Bay of Bengal. The beads came from India, and also much further afield such as Venice. Metal elements were also used. These were cast locally or imported, mostly from India. The Nagas traditionally were head hunters, and the jewellery of the menfolk reflected the preoccupation with ancestor worship and one’s prowess at hunting and taking heads.
Jewellery items were highly prized and were treated as heirlooms to be passed from family member to family member. Components of necklaces such as individual beads were prized just as much as overall jewellery pieces, and so often beads and other jewellery components would be used and re-used. Jewellery items would be amended and remade according to need and as a family’s wealth and prestige grew. But by the 1970s, the Nagas no longer wore much traditional jewellery and jewellery making for traditional purposes largely stopped. Most Nagas had also converted to Christianity (Baptist mostly), and the taking of heads had long stopped, having been largely supressed by the British in the early 20th century. As with any evolving society, heirloom pieces were traded for items that improved a family’s well-being – medicines, household appliances and so on.
The necklace here is from the collection of well known artist, printer and art publisher Hansjorg Mayer (b. 1943) who built up a large collection of Naga jewellery over a 50-year period, commencing in the early 1970s. Mayer’s works are to be found in the Tate Britain and other museums in Europe.
Illustrated: This actual item is illustrated in Jacobs, J., The Nagas: Hill Peoples of Northeast India, Thames & Hudson, 1990, page 254.
Above: A Naga warrior wearing a necklace of two severed heads, early 20th century.
References
Ao, A. S., Naga Tribal Adornment: Signatures of Status and Self, The Bead Society of Greater Washington, 2003.
Barbier, J.P., Art of Nagaland: The Barbier-Muller Collection Geneva, Los Angeles County Museum of Art, 1984.
Giehmann, M., Naga Treasures: Tribal Adornment from the Nagas – India and Myanmar, 2001.
Jacobs, J., The Nagas: Hill Peoples of Northeast India, Thames & Hudson, 1990.
Saul, J.D., The Naga of Burma: Their Festivals, Customs and Way of Life, Orchid Press, 2005.
Sherr Dubin, L., The Worldwide History of Beads, Thames & Hudson, 2009.
Shilu, A., Naga Tribal Adornment: Signatures of Status and Self, The Bead Museum, Washington, 2003.
Untracht, O., Traditional Jewelry of India, Thames & Hudson, 1997.