9676

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    Somalian Amber & Silver Dowry Necklace

    Horn of Africa, probably Somalia, Sudan or Harer, Ethiopia
    19th-early 20th century

    circumference: approximately 78cm, diameter of silver beads: approximately 3.5cm, diameter of amber beads: 1.6cm, weight: 194g

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    Provenance

    UK art market

    This fine dowry necklace comprises many amber beads (the amber is unprocessed and in its natural state) plus twelve hollow silver beads. Such necklaces were worn in the Horn of Africa – in Somalia, Sudan and the Harer region of Ethiopia.

    The amber beads have good wear and varying colour. The silver beads have corresponding age and wear.

    Such necklaces were a sign of conspicuous wealth on the part of their owners. They were used as dowry gifts for brides. Usually such gifts were the bride’s property that she could keep and sell in the event of divorce.

    Amber was also believed to have prophylactic qualities, as well as being a store and overt display of wealth.

    The example here is in excellent condition. It is a fine example.

    It was accompanied by Item 9677 and it is likely that both necklaces were part of a larger necklace that was split by a mother so that each of her two daughters or daughters-in-law could have a necklace.

    References

    Borel, F., The Splendour of Ethnic Jewelry: From the Colette and Jean-Pierre Ghysels Collection, Thames & Hudson, 1994.

    Fisher, A., Africa Adorned, Collins Harvill, 1987.

    Liu, R.K., A Universal Aesthetic: Collectible Beads, Ornament, Inc, 1995.

    Seiwert, W.D., Jewellery from the Orient: Treasures from the Bir Collection, Arnoldsche Art Publishers, 2009.

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