Enquiry about object: 9290
South Indian Gold Jasmine Bud Necklace (Jadi Pu Malai)
Tamil Nadu, South India early 20th century
circumference: 42.7cm, length of individual jasmine bud: 5.4cm, weight: 77g
Provenance
Private collection, US
This type of necklace with each component based on the elongated, pointed jasmine bud is known either as a jadi pu malai or a mullai arumbu malai. It comprises 56 bud-like elements and two trapezoid terminals embossed with scrolling leaf motifs. Each main element is separated by two gold spherical bead spacers. Additionally, the upper sections of each ‘bud’ is decorated with textured ribbing, and each ‘bud’ terminates with a tiny spherical finial.
Each element has been made from sheet gold rolled into an elongated, tapering tube which has then been reinforced by being filled with lac, as is typical of South Indian gold jewellery.
The necklace retains its original stringing.
A related example is illustrated in Bala Krishnan (2005, p. 130) who comments that ‘necklaces such as this are rarely found in private or even in temple collections.’
References
Bala Krishnan, U.R. et al, Icons in Gold: Jewelry of India from the Collection of the Musee Barbier-Mueller, Somogy, 2005.
Untracht, O., Traditional Jewelry of India, Thames & Hudson, 1997.
