Enquiry about object: 9677
Somalian Silver & Amber Dowry Necklace with Syrian Silver Trade Beads
Horn of Africa, probably Somalia, Sudan or Harer, Ethiopia 19th-early 20th century
circumference: 62cm, diameter of silver beads: approximately 2.8cm, diameter of amber beads: approximately 1.5cm, weight: 119g
Provenance
UK art market
This fine dowry necklace comprises many amber beads (the amber is unprocessed and in its natural state) plus seven hollow silver beads – five are local and two are trade beads from Syria and are decorated with small turquoise inserts. Such necklaces were worn in the Horn of Africa – in Somalia, Sudan and the Harer region of Ethiopia.
The amber beads have good wear and varying colour. The silver beads have corresponding age and wear.
Such necklaces were a sign of conspicuous wealth on the part of their owners. They were used as dowry gifts for brides. Usually such gifts were the bride’s property that she could keep and sell in the event of divorce.
Amber was also believed to have prophylactic qualities, as well as being a store and overt display of wealth.
The example here is in excellent condition. It is a fine example.
It was accompanied by Item 9676 and it is likely that both necklaces were part of a larger necklace that was split by a mother so that each of her two daughters or daughters-in-law could have a necklace.
References
Borel, F., The Splendour of Ethnic Jewelry: From the Colette and Jean-Pierre Ghysels Collection, Thames & Hudson, 1994.
Fisher, A., Africa Adorned, Collins Harvill, 1987.
Liu, R.K., A Universal Aesthetic: Collectible Beads, Ornament, Inc, 1995.
Seiwert, W.D., Jewellery from the Orient: Treasures from the Bir Collection, Arnoldsche Art Publishers, 2009.