Enquiry about object: 9640
Tibetan Silver, Gilt & Turquoise Woman’s Belt Ornament & Matching Silver Chain (Ghanjen or Gyenzen)
Tibet 19th century
length: 46.7cm, width: 43cm, weight: 318g
Provenance
UK art market
This type of T-shaped belt or waist ornament was worn by well-to-do women in Lhasa. Such ornaments were worn on important public occasions.
It comprises three heavy straps, each of four, wide cords of woven silver wire plus woven silver borders, decorated with gilded-silver plaques overlaid with fine, gilded-silver filigree and set with turquoise cabochons in gilded box settings.
The straps or arms radiate from a central, cast dharma medallion set with more turquoise. The two horizontal arms terminate with solid cast silver hooks. The lower arm terminates with another round dharma medallion to which a long, fine silver chain is attached. Each link of this chain has been formed carefully as a flower. The chain has at its other end a gilded plaque decorated with filigree and set with turquoise. It is unusual for this chain to still be present. It is also an especially fine example of such a chain.
Heavy waist ornaments such as these were worn with the central strap hanging down freely and with the chain attached to another part of the belt or dress. On important occasions, long strands of pearls, coral and turquoise beads were attached to the wheel-like end of the central strap. These could loop down almost to the ground and back up again where they were attached to the main garment somewhere near the shoulder.
A belt ornament of related form is illustrated in Casey Singer (1996, p. 142), and in Clarke (2004, p. 67).
The belt ornament here is in excellent condition.
References
Casey Singer, J., Gold Jewelry from Tibet and Nepal, Thames & Hudson, 1996.
Clarke, J., Jewellery of Tibet and the Himalayas, V&A Publications, 2004.