Superb Tibetan Gold, Silver & Turquoise Woman’s Belt Ornament (Ghanjen or Gyenzen)

This outstanding T-shaped belt or waist ornament would have been worn by an aristocratic woman in Lhasa. Such ornaments were worn on important public occasions. It is the best example that we have seen.

It comprises three heavy silver ‘arms’ each of solid-cast and chiselled silver sections linked by silver loops and terminating with silver and gold dharma wheel medallion set with a turquoise cabochon. The two horizontal arms also terminate with heavy silver hooks.

The central section comprises a heavy silver plate – a square above which there is an arched element – all encrusted with beautiful turquoise cabochons, all tightly packed, and embedded in high-carat gold box settings, with the gold and the blue of the turquoise providing a pleasing contrast.

The reverse of the central elements is also beautifully done, being decorated with thick, rounded silver ribs.

Heavy waist ornaments such as these were worn with the central strap hanging down freely and with the chain attached to another part of the belt or dress. On important occasions, long strands of pearls, coral and turquoise beads were attached to the wheel-like end of the central strap. These could loop down almost to the ground and back up again where they were attached to the main garment somewhere near the shoulder.

A belt ornament of related form is illustrated in Casey Singer (1996, p. 142), and in Clarke (2004, p. 67).

The belt is in excellent condition.