Enquiry about object: 9478
Large Libyan or Tunisian Silver Fibula with Libyan Assay & Maker’s Marks (Hlal or Khellal)
Bedouin People, Libya & Tunisia late 19th-early 20th century
width: 17.6cm across, weight: 170g
Provenance
UK art market
This cloak pin or fibula known as a hlal or khellal has been cut from solid silver sheet and engraved with decorative motifs. It dates to around the end of the 19th century or early 20th century and is from the Berber people of Libya. Similar fibula were worn by the Berbers of Tunisia where they were made mostly by local Jewish silversmiths of Houmt-Souk. It is crescent shaped underscoring the item’s Islamic origins, and is fitted with a large pin.
It is engraved with fish motifs (symbolising prosperity) and dove motifs (symbolising peace), as well as crescent moon motifs wrapped around a star, again symbolising the item’s Islamic origins, all against a finely tooled background.
The fibula has many assay and maker’s stamps on both the front, the back, and the pin. Silver assay marks with Arabic script but based on French marks which were used in Libya between 1859 and 1926. Maker’s marks – possibly RTF – also have been applied.
Related examples are illustrated in Phillips (2004, p. 572), Prolongeau-Wade (2008, p. 190), Nadler (2005, p. 64), Borel (1994, p. 54), Leurquin (2003, p. 44), Fisher (1987, p. 263), and Seiwert (2009, p. 85). The last example is identified as coming from the Medenine region of Southeastern Tunisia.
The example here is in fine condition and with a good patina.
References
Borel, F., The Splendour of Ethnic Jewelry: From the Colette and Jean-Pierre Ghysels Collection, Thames & Hudson, 1994.
Fisher, A., Africa Adorned, Collins Harvill, 1987.
Hoek, C., et al, Ethnic Jewellery: From Africa, Asia and Pacific Islands, Pepin Press, 2004.
Leurquin, A., A World of Necklaces: Africa, Asia, Oceania, America from the Ghysels Collection, Skira, 2003.
Nadler, D. & S., Silver: From Fetish to Fashion, PDN Publishing, 2005.
Phillips, T., Africa: The Art of a Continent, Prestel, 2004.
Prolongeau-Wade, S., Voyage des au Pays Fibules, Editions du Regard, 2008.
Seiwert, W.D., Jewellery from the Orient: Treasures from the Bir Collection, Arnoldsche Art Publishers, 2009.