Enquiry about object: 9573
Yemen Silver & Carnelian Wedding Headdress (Ma’saba)
Juba, Marib Governorate, Northern Yemen & Southern Saudi Arabia early 20th century
circumference: approximately 54cm, width (of main band): 5cm, length of fringe: 4.5cm, weight: 605g
Provenance
UK art market
This silver alloy headdress set with six large carnelian (orange agate) cabochons, was worn in Juba in the Marib Governorate, and also in southern Saudi Arabia, as part of the traditional wedding attire of a local Bedouin woman. It was worn on the top of the head over a traditional cloth head covering and across the forehead.
It comprises a braided silver wire substrate band over which at the front are folded five main silver plaques each set with a flat carnelian in a high box setting, and four narrower plaques. The silver plaques are further decorated with silver granulation, filigree and applique work. A fringe of pendant dangles of chains and solid-cast terminals hangs down from the front of the headdress.
At the back are five further silver plaques, the middle one of which is set with an oval carnelian cabochon.
A similar headdress is illustrated in Ransom (2014, p. 80).
Ransom (2014, p. 83) reports how Jewish silversmiths would visit the region annually and stay for several weeks while they fulfilled orders.
The headdress is missing one or several dangles from the fringe at the front but otherwise is in fine condition.
References
Hosli, P., Shine & Mystery: The Splendour and Power of Oriental Jewellery, Knauf-Museum – Iphofen, 2023.
Ransom, M., Silver Treasures from the Land of Sheba: Regional Yemeni Jewelry, AUC Press, 2014.